SkinGenesis Jargon Buster

Squeezing the Jargon on the Tube!

If you’ve taken part in our poll and are wondering what the true meaning of these terms is, then here is the SkinGenesis quick guide to marketing pseudo-science in the skin care products industry!

Penta-Peptide

A compound containing 5 amino acid molecules linked by peptide bonds. Amino acids are organic molecules that are the building blocks of protein and essential to human life. Peptides could be regarded as smaller protein molecules. By convention a protein is made up of one or more poly-peptides containing at least 50 amino acids. The body is capable of synthesising some amino acids but not others. The amino acids that the body cannot synthesise must be obtained from the diet (proteins) and are called essential amino acids. Synthesised peptides can mimic peptides that occur naturally in the skin and are specifically formulated to stimulate various skin functions. They are increasingly used to stimulate cell turnover and renewal as well as mimic other cosmetic interventions such as Botox.

Coenzyme Q10

A vitamin like substance (sometimes called ubiquinone) that helps stabilise cell membranes while bringing more oxygen into the cells and the mitochondria (the ‘power plant’ in cells). It facilitates healthy cell renewal and inhibits oxidisation. Good natural sources include red meat, oily fish and spinach.

Proxylane

(I think should be Pro-Xylane). Pro-Xylane is a derivative of xylose (wood sugar) produced by L’Oreal for its Skin Genesis (no connection with SkinGenesis Ltd) range of products. This product is known as DermaGenesis in the UK to avoid confusion with our clinics. L’Oreal’s publicity states that Pro-Xylane will replenish and tighten skin.

Marine Bio-peptides

It is hard to imagine a peptide that is not “bio”?. This implies peptides derived from something in the sea, which could be anything from contaminated sea water off the Bay of Naples to the hearts of the endangered arrowtooth flounder. Worth avoiding if you have a shrimp allergy!

Pro retinol A

Pro retinol (there isn’t a ‘B’ or a ‘C’) is a form of vitamin A that has been formulated for topical application to the skin. It has proven characteristics of regulating cell growth and causing slight exfoliation. It is widely used as an anti-ageing ingredient and is particularly effective in treating sun damage, especially fine lines, coarse skin texture and unwanted pigmentation. It should be used with a certain amount of caution as it will cause the skin to be more sensitive to sunlight.

Pro Calcium

A form of calcium (hydroxyapatite) used by L’Oreal in its Re-Perfect range. The molecular size is small enough to be absorbed into the skin where it can supplement the calcium in the epidermis. Higher levels of calcium in the epidermis will stimulate skin renewal by increasing cell turnover. This process will have a rejuvenating effect. Research has linked premature skin ageing and skin cancer with low levels of calcium in the skin.

Poly Collagen Peptides

These refer to peptides designed to stimulate collagen production and renewal. The poly prefix implies there are many amino acids in the peptide.